Summit 8000 by Andrew Lock is more than a chronicle of climbs, camps, dates and times it is a window into the mind of a man who continually pushes himself to succeed
Andrew writes with an Australian matter of fact, no bullshit frankness which enables him to tell his story and his philosophy with integrity. It feels as if you are sitting in a kitchen tent with him listening to the story first hand.
Being the first Australian and the first person from the British Commonwealth to climb all fourteen 8000 meter mountains is a huge achievement only made available through decades of striving not only on mountains but in training and planning.
Copies can be purchased from Andrew Locks web site
With Christmas passing I found myself with a new book to read and that book I couldn’t put down was “I chose to climb” by Chris Bonington.
This book takes you on a down to earth journey with the author through his formative climbing years through to his ascent of the Eiger North Face.
Unlike some mountaineering books where the author takes an almost super human perspective to their exploits Chris Bonington shares his fears and lets you know he faces the same challenges with you. Through out this book you get a sense of the authors growing skill and competence as he climbs with different partners including Don Whilllans (The Villain).
If you are going to buy any book in the next few months add this to your list if you haven’t already read it.
June 3 1950 saw the first ascent of an 8000 meter peak, Annapurna in the Himalayas on an expedition lead by Maurice Herzog.
Herzog who was born in the town of Lyon on the 15th of January 1919 developed a love for the mountains at his families chalet in Chamonix France. Maurice served as a rifleman during the war and as an executive post war. It wasn’t until Annapurna that Maurice Herzog became a house hold name.
The expedition in 1950 originally targeted Dhaulagiri, and a great deal of time was spent trying to find a route up the mountain. When it became apparent that this mountain would not be climbed the team switched their objective to Annapurna. The route to the base of the mountain still needed to be found, a suitable climbing route and stocking the route all needed to be done before the upcoming monsoon season.
In a testament to organisation and the skill they pulled off the climb and at around 2pm on june 3 1950 they reached the top. During the ascent and descent Herzog and Lachenal suffered frostbite to their hands and feet. Their repatriation to France took 6 weeks of painful travel.
Herzog wrote the book Annapurna after his return, which has sold over 11 million copies. Ed Viesturs, a famous American mountaineer and the first american to climb all 14 of the 8000m peaks without oxygen cites Herzog’s Annapurna as one of the reasons he got started in mountaineering.
To put the effort of the 1950 climb in perspective, Annapurna repels many climbing team each year and is known as one of the most dangerous 8000m peaks. Viesturs himself took three attempts to climb the mountain and doubted that the peak was inside his level of acceptable risk.
Herzog passed away on the 13th of December 2012 after leading a long and full life
Well the time has come swap out my old pair of boots which were also La Sportiva’s but I cant remember the model. Heavy full grain leather boots which lasted me eight years and sold me on the quality of this brand. So I headed to Melbourne with my tax return in my hand and feet pointed to little Bourke street.
I wont go into the full spec’s of the boot which can be found here Sportiva.com
I found the boots very comfortable straight out of the box and managed to wear them on a day walk three days after purchasing them. The walk was a snowy bash up the south wellington track, across wellington plateau to the summit and then down via the road. With 15-20cm of fresh snow on the ground I was expecting to end up with wet feet at some point during the day and I also packed the blister kit just in case. I was very happy to get home that evening with dry feet that were completely blister free. The Vibram soles provided plenty of traction on a slippery track and at no point were my feet cold.
I would recommend upgrading the innersole of the boot as its a tad thin.
All in all I was very happy with my purchase and hope to get another eight years out of these ones.
So a workout you can do pretty much anywhere, at home, in your office, in a hut or even on a dry section of track.
1. Two min warm up, star jumps, jog on the spot or similar.
2. One min calf raises left leg
3. One min calf raises right leg
4. One min squats
5. One min lunges right leg forward
6. One min lunges left leg forward
7. One min crunches
8. One min push ups
9. One min tricep push ups right arm
10. One min tricep push ups left arm.
Repeat minus the warm up
11. Cool down as long as it takes to reduce your heart rate.
This comes in handy on those days where you don’t have much time to get a workout in. Ad a run for a good cardio and strength session.
Easy to extend the length by repeating more times.